ABOUT CANCUN & THE RIVIERA MAYA

The peninsula of Yucatan is unique. A giant landmass jutting out from between the Gulf of Mexico and the Caribbean Sea, it is actually a limestone shelf honeycombed with underground rivers, caverns and sinkholes. The surface is a maze of verdant jungle, pristine beaches and archaeological sites, dotted with fantastic resorts and modest fishing villages.

It is also home to three separate states, each with its own personality and attractions. One third of the peninsula belongs to Campeche, rich with colonial history and Mayan ruins. Exotic names such as Chicanna, Becan, Xpuhil, Calakmul and Edzna transport visitors to ancient times with relics nestled in the bright green jungle. The walled city of Campeche, the capital, stops the clock in colonial times, when it defended itself against pirates who sought to steal its riches. These riches are still present in the beautifully restored buildings and temples of the city. Campeche, as a state, has remained true to its intent of preservation: it boasts Mexico's largest tract of tropical jungle reserve.

The second state, aptly named Yucatan, spearheads the peninsula into the Gulf of Mexico. It, too, is blessed with colonial beauty, some of the most important Mayan archaeological sites in the world, and its own ecological bounty. Yucatan boasts a long coastline with towns like Progreso and Telchac, beautiful beaches and wonderful seafood restaurants. Inland, visitors can follow the route of the Maya and visit the incomparable cities of Chichen Itza, Uxmal, Oxkintok and more. Colonial cities such as Valladolid and the "White City" of Merida beckon with their history and the warmth of their people, and nature plays its brightest notes in magnificent preserves like the Celestun Biosphere Reserve and Rio Lagartos.

Quintana Roo became the third state in 1975, putting the Caribbean coast of Mexico on the map, along with its favored son, Cancun.

Cancun
This resort-methodically planned from start to finish-is the number-one tourist destination in Mexico. Luxury hotels, and luxury resorts, share the white sand with family-oriented all-inclusive resorts, restaurants serve everything from home cooking to fine dining to American standards, and the nightlife is something movies are (actually) made of. Cancun is divided in two separate sections: Isla Cancun and Ciudad Cancun. The former is the golden Hotel Zone; the latter is the older downtown area where guests will find smaller hotels, great local restaurants and the local mercado for arts and crafts.

Ciudad del Carmen
Ciudad del Carmen, about 130 miles from Campeche City, reflects the maritime history of the state. It was a port of trade for the ancient Mayas and Aztecs; later, it

harbored pirates and their ilk. Today, this island city is known as the Pearl of the Gulf, and is a repository of colonial buildings built in the 18th and 19th centuries, such as the Parish of the Virgin del Carmen and the Temple of Jesus de Nazareno. Don't miss a trip to the local mercado for local crafts (flowers, lamps and more) made from glittering fish scales.

Cozumel
Cozumel is but a hop, skip and a jump from Cancun, but it boasts its own followers, many of whom prefer this island's quite charm and outstanding diving sites on the Palancar Reef. Downtown Cozumel has a full list of restaurants that cater to both local and international palates-usually a bit slow-paced, it fills up when the cruise ships dock nearby a couple of days a week. There are plenty of budget hotels as well as upscale resorts, and it even boasts its own 18-hole Jack Nicklaus-designed course at the Cozumel Country Club.

Merida
The capital of the state of Yucatan, Merida is a classic colonial city with the unique ability to showcase a rare combination of European style and Mayan tradition. The Caribbean atmosphere, friendly inhabitants and excellent cuisine are only part of its charm. Its location made it easier to communicate with Europe than with inland Mexico, which translated into a main boulevard modeled after the Champs Elysee in Paris, lined with splendid mansions that hark back to the days of the "green gold" empires of the sisal plantation owners. The cool evenings invite visitors to the charming plazas, with their outdoor cafes, wrought iron benches and live music. The cuisine of the Yucatan is amply represented in Merida's many restaurants-and more likely than not, you'll be serenaded by a wonderful local trio while enjoying a delicious meal.

Playa del Carmen
Farther down the coast of the Caribbean is what has come to be known as the Mayan Riviera. This less developed area nonetheless has plenty of top-notch luxury hotels and luxury resorts, as well as long stretches of white-sand beaches where you'll find no other company than some seabirds and the waves. The majority of the resorts are built in and around Playa del Carmen, a cozy beach town with great shopping and some good clubs. Its more upscale neighbor, Playacar, has laid claim to some very exclusive properties, and is making a name for itself among those in the know. This entire region was once known as an important commercial and religious center for the ancient Maya-today, its draw is just as powerful.

Great Escapes
Isla Holbox is located in the northwest corner of the state of Quintana Roo on the Yucatan peninsula and is a wonderful place to escape to for a fishing expedition. Most of the island is uninhabited-it's primarily mangrove and a wildlife sanctuary-though the northern side boasts beautiful sandy beaches. Bottom fishing and deep-sea fishing are a favorite. Don't forget to take your catch to the local restaurants: most will cook it up for you so you can enjoy the fruits of your labor.

Snorkelers and divers need to make a beeline for the Parque Nacional Arrecife de Puerto Morelos, a national underwater reef park just in front of the quaint, traditional town of Puerto Morelos on the northeastern coast of Quintana Roo. Part of the great Palancar Reef, it keeps the waters calm and clear, protecting the beach. The turquoise water is a balmy 80 degrees, and the coral formations are rife with multicolored fish.

Isla Mujeres is a short ferry ride away from Cancun, and shares the Palancar Reef with Puerto Morelos. The fifth largest barrier reef in the world, it extends from the tip of the island to Sapodilla Cay in the Gulf of Honduras. There are several boutique hotels that will entice you to stay, as well as handicrafts shops, souvenir stalls and even fine jewelry stores. Playa Norte, the island's most popular beach, allows you to walk out for nearly 100 yards before the water even hits your waist. The Garrafon National Park for great snorkeling; more advanced divers will want to check out the notorious Cave of the Sleeping Sharks.

Main Cities
Cancun, Playa del Carmen, Merida, Campeche, Cozumel

Don't Miss
A night of danzon in Merida's historical plazas, where locals gather to waltz away to the sound of live music.

A day in Xcaret or a visit to Xel-Ha, two ecological parks easily accessible from Cancun and Playa del Carmen. The former is a wonderland of coves, inlets, grottos and cenotes (freshwater sinkholes) that also offers a dolphinarium, a subterranean river, an aquarium and a museum. Xel-Ha is often called the world's largest natural aquarium. It's made up of a series of lagoons connected by a maze of canals. Each of the pools is populated with schools of very friendly photogenic fish. Though many are closed to the public for conservation reasons, there is no dearth of space to visit with the underwater community. The park also has several Mayan temples.

An archaeological expedition on the island of Cozumel, which boasts nearly 25 sites. Though the majority are still in the exploration stage, two are ready and waiting for you and your camera: San Gervasio and El Cedral.

Cuisine
The dishes in this part of Mexico come from a distinct mixture of European and Mayan flavors. Game meats such as wild turkey and deer-hunted by the Maya-became pork and chicken after the Conquest. The preparation, however, included the indigenous tomatoes, pumpkin seeds, chiles, and annatto, as well as other herbs and spices that became part of this tasty mix. Black beans are prevalent, and dishes such as cochinita pibil (pork with annatto), papadzules (rolled stuffed tortillas in pumpkin seed sauce) and the ubiquitous-and delicious-sopa de lima (lime soup) entice visitors with a savory welcome.

Climate
The climate of Cancun is semi-tropical and humid, with a rainy season from May to November, mainly concentrated in the fall months. It doesn't rain every day, though, so even the rainy season is a good time to visit. March and April are the driest months.